Tag Archives: altitude

Quilotoa

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After my less-than-raving review of La Laguna de Latacunga, in support of fairness and balance, I thought I should write about a really spectacular lagoon not so far away. Even though it doesn’t involve me running. The lagoon sits in the crater of an dormant volcano, Quilotoa, a couple of hours from Latacunga.

Life in Latacunga, whilst I am volunteering at a pre-school ‘teaching English’, is the most hermit-esque I have experienced on my travels so far. I’m a very positive person, so my lack of words on this town could speak volumes. Hence I was excited to escape the drudge on a volcanic/mountainous/lagoon adventure with a friend at the weekend.

The first leg of our journey was a bus ride from Latacunga, up (further) into the mountains to Zumbahua. Zumbahua is a small town at 3700m altitude, populated by indigenous, or Quechua people. After getting off the bus we wandered around the market, and I got an idea of the everyday essentials in Zumbahuan life. We did stick out a fair bit; my fair hair; our backpacks; not to mention standing (at least) head and shoulders over 90% of everyone. Actually maybe 100%. My friend overheard a woman telling her child to behave themselves, or the gringos would take them away! I was simultaneously relieved and disappointed not to see the cui (guinea pig), bargaining we’d heard took place here, and we took a car onwards to Quilotoa.

The Quilotoa crater and lagoon are not visible as you approach, only when you walk up to the edge of the rim, can you see the incredible picture-postcard view. Because of this, I couldn’t manage to get the whole thing in one photo (even on panoramic mode; I tried).

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The descent into the crater is a steep and sandy incline. Although not easy on the legs, the beautiful scenery made it far less than a chore. After breathing in the beauty for a while we reached the shore of the lagoon and took a leisurely paddle around in a kayak. Supposedly dormant, there was still evidence of volcanic activity which we found in hot water seeping from the rocks, painting them bright red and orange with mineral deposits, and natural jacuzzis bubbling up to the surface of the lake.

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Back on shore we set up camp, collected firewood, and watched the sun go down behind the steep walls of Quilotoa which surrounded us. After a not-so sound night’s sleep, with strong winds and hard ground, waking up to the views of the lagoon made it worth it. One aspect which was particularly incredible was the reflections of the sky and the clouds on the lagoon. Being so close to the clouds, their shadows painted a flowing, dramatic contrast of colours on the surface of the vast lagoon.

Later in the day it was time to make the dreaded ascent back up to the mouth of the crater. Aside from the steep and slippy terrain, we were making the climb up to 3900m altitude. We took it slow and edged our way back up, taking a while longer than on the way down, and meeting some llamas on the way. They weren’t really as friendly as they might look in this photo.

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Quito

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Quito: the world’s second highest Capitol City (after La Paz, where I opted not to run), at 2800m above sea level. A few places I had been to in Colombia were at pretty high altitudes, Bogota is over 2600m. However by pretending they weren’t and not listening when people talked about how high they are, I had managed fine with my running. Now in Quito, I decided to take the same ‘ignorance is bliss’ approach. And in this ignorant bliss I enjoyed 2 days in Quito and the surrounding areas; climbing the many stairs and rickety ladders of the Basílica del Voto Nacional, to stunning views of the city; visiting a fantastic artisan market in Otavalo; having a general wander and getting my first taste of Ecuador. Going for a run: ne bother.

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This morning I set my alarm for seven (after a criminally early night for a traveller), and was pounding the pavements by half past. Luckily I was even earlier than most of the city’s commuters, and the streets were fairly quiet. I headed for a nearby park which I had checked out the previous two evenings. Both times I had been there before, there had been dramatic games of volleyball going on, amongst men who looked like they had just finished work. These games were obviously a big deal to the guys involved and had drawn crowds of a couple of hundred or so men to spectate. There was not a single woman in the crowd, and I felt like I was breaking some unwritten rule by being there. Clearly I love breaking rules which exclude women from societal activities so I stayed and watched for a while.

This morning there was no volleyball happening, however the people of Quito were still loving their active pursuits a la mañana. A group were doing a martial art, complete with big sticks and vocal sound effects. There were a few runners, and many cyclists opting for the 2 wheel commute. And of course my old fave: the urban gym. I was impressed and surprised by the popularity and diversity of this gym. Men and women of all ages crowded the bright gym equipment, enthusiastically repping up a sweat before the 9 to 5. I tried to get some sly pictures from afar without looking like an urban gym pervert again, I only wish I’d bitten it and gone and got stuck in there myself. I did however rack up 2 laps of the park (mostly for those extra urb-gym glimpses), before heading back to the hostel as the roads and pavements began to clog.

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And so my ignorant bliss, I was bound to fall from it at some point. After a hearty breakfast which I felt like I deserved, I headed out to check out some local museum and gallery culture. Heading down the street, I felt light headed and dizzy, and was struggling to utter a few words at more than a whisper. Struck down by altitude yet again, I clearly haven’t acclimatised to (a runner’s) life in the mountains. I traded in the culture for a morning in bed listening to British radio, which was actually a satisfying culture fix in itself.