Tag Archives: altitude sickness

Quito

Quito: the world’s second highest Capitol City (after La Paz, where I opted not to run), at 2800m above sea level. A few places I had been to in Colombia were at pretty high altitudes, Bogota is over 2600m. However by pretending they weren’t and not listening when people talked about how high they are, I had managed fine with my running. Now in Quito, I decided to take the same ‘ignorance is bliss’ approach. And in this ignorant bliss I enjoyed 2 days in Quito and the surrounding areas; climbing the many stairs and rickety ladders of the Basílica del Voto Nacional, to stunning views of the city; visiting a fantastic artisan market in Otavalo; having a general wander and getting my first taste of Ecuador. Going for a run: ne bother.

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This morning I set my alarm for seven (after a criminally early night for a traveller), and was pounding the pavements by half past. Luckily I was even earlier than most of the city’s commuters, and the streets were fairly quiet. I headed for a nearby park which I had checked out the previous two evenings. Both times I had been there before, there had been dramatic games of volleyball going on, amongst men who looked like they had just finished work. These games were obviously a big deal to the guys involved and had drawn crowds of a couple of hundred or so men to spectate. There was not a single woman in the crowd, and I felt like I was breaking some unwritten rule by being there. Clearly I love breaking rules which exclude women from societal activities so I stayed and watched for a while.

This morning there was no volleyball happening, however the people of Quito were still loving their active pursuits a la mañana. A group were doing a martial art, complete with big sticks and vocal sound effects. There were a few runners, and many cyclists opting for the 2 wheel commute. And of course my old fave: the urban gym. I was impressed and surprised by the popularity and diversity of this gym. Men and women of all ages crowded the bright gym equipment, enthusiastically repping up a sweat before the 9 to 5. I tried to get some sly pictures from afar without looking like an urban gym pervert again, I only wish I’d bitten it and gone and got stuck in there myself. I did however rack up 2 laps of the park (mostly for those extra urb-gym glimpses), before heading back to the hostel as the roads and pavements began to clog.

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And so my ignorant bliss, I was bound to fall from it at some point. After a hearty breakfast which I felt like I deserved, I headed out to check out some local museum and gallery culture. Heading down the street, I felt light headed and dizzy, and was struggling to utter a few words at more than a whisper. Struck down by altitude yet again, I clearly haven’t acclimatised to (a runner’s) life in the mountains. I traded in the culture for a morning in bed listening to British radio, which was actually a satisfying culture fix in itself.

Cusco

I arrived in Cusco 4 days ago, thanks to a 22 hour bus journey from Lima. After arriving at the hostel and having a little time to settle in, a traveller from my dorm asked if I would like to hike up to the Inca ruins above the city with him. This site is known as Saqsayhuaman, pronounced ‘sexy woman’ (pretty much). Cusco lies over 3400m above sea level and I had been warned of the dreaded altitude sickness by fellow travellers. However, I was not prepared for the struggle to come. I consider myself in fairly good shape, but walking upstairs to the hostel bar has me wheezing like I’ve been chain smoking Richmonds the night before. I haven’t. Thus a hike through the city to the top(ish) of the mountains had me feeling my age, or someone else’s who is much older than me. Alas, my trek was not in vain and was worth every wheeze and splutter for the amazing views of the city below.

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After my experience with the sexy woman, I decided it was best to leave myself to acclimatise to the altitude for a few days before heading out for a run. So this morning was my first attempt. I woke early after a long sleep and headed out around 8. As in Lima, it was rush hour. Yet a very different kind of rush. Hundreds of people and many animals crowd the narrow cobbled pavements, making it hard to run for more than a few metres before having to stop and let a llama past.

I headed away from my hostel and the touristic centre of town. I got a lot of funny looks from locals, being the only gringo; wearing shorts and a vest, whilst they are wrapped in their llama shawls and alpaca jumpers. I made a circuit around the San Pedro market where I papped these traditional flower sellers outside.

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Having not really run far at all, I turned back towards the old centre of town and made my way to the central Plaza de Armas. Here I found some other women running and started to feel more at home. The altitude was really hitting me now and I was pleased to have the excuse of stopping to take some photos:

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I managed 2 laps of the Plaza before my lungs were begging me to slow down (I noticed the other runners were having to stop and catch their breaths which consoled me slightly), then huffed and puffed my way back to the hostel. Arriving back, after only around 20 minutes of running, my legs were wobbling like I’d just ran a half marathon. Eeh well, it’s all good training for my 5 day trek to Machupicchu which starts on Saturday.