Tag Archives: female traveller

Guayaquil

Guayaquil is the only place (I’ve heard of) with its own community of urban iguanas. These creatures roam free in Parque Simon Bolivar, the first destination on my run this morning. It is unclear who or what feeds the iguanas, or stops them wandering out of the park fences and into the surrounding streets and roads. But they seem to be thriving, albeit with a few tails missing. The Ecuadorians in the park were fairly interested in the iguanas but were probably just as enthused about feeding the pigeons. Unfortunately I had forgotten to charge my camera today, but have some snaps from my trip to the park yesterday.

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Onwards from Simon Bolivar, I ran to the Malecón, another urban park which makes up a long promenade area along the seafront. It was early morning, before the rush and before the sun, and I was one of many runners making the most of the Malecón. The other runners included dozens of naval sailors undertaking their morning fitness training. I had seen many sailors in crisp white uniforms throughout the city the previous day (think Sex and The City navy boat party episode-or not), but this morning they were wearing cute little navy blue shorts and tee twinsets, complete with white hems and stripes, and ‘naval’ in white across the chest. Tres chic!

The Malecón has a lovely variety of environments; lush Gardens, fish ponds, performance spaces, restaurants, a cinema and a museum, as well as a life-size nativity scene and giant Christmas tree for the festive season. This morning I ran past a series of monuments to famous historical Guayaquilianos. One name stood out in particular and I repeated it to myself for the rest of the run, so as not to forget it. The name was Rosa Borja de Icaza.

On googling my Ecuadorian namesake, I found out that she was a writer, sociologist, feminist and activist. Yes Rosa Borja de Icaza! Recently when I told someone I was called Rosa, they said that I was “destined to make a change with a name like that”. A tall order I’d say, when I have such fantastic females as my predecessors: ! Rosa Parks, Rosa Luxemburg, and now Rosa Borja de Icaza. (If you know any more incredible Rosas, please get in touch). So back to running. Another reason I was named Rosa was that I was very red when I was born. I was now getting pretty hot and red on my run (haven’t shaken that off with age), so headed back for a cool shower at the hostel.

I still have 2 tiny pieces of shell stuck in the sole of my left foot from Canoa. They’re pretty sore and now also have pus coming out of them (sorry). I must have been running unevenly to compensate for this, and to avoid pushing them in even further, so had a sore ankle after the run. It may be best to take it easy on the running in Baños, my next destination, until my foot gamminess is resolved. All medical advice welcome!

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The sun blazes pinky orange, setting over the Pacific Ocean around 6:30 every evening in Canoa. So at 6pm yesterday I decided to head out for what will probably be my final coastal run in Ecuador. Barefoot, I headed South down the beach, away from the town (watching out for spiky shells).

Canoa’s long, long beach is home to a variety of creatures (seabirds, vultures, weird wriggly worms, snails…). But my favourite has to be the hundreds of bright red crabs who wile away their days digging little holes in the sand and then standing guard halfway out of said hole. In the five days I spent in Canoa, playing a game of chicken with these little guys; seeing how long they would stare you out before they plopped down into their den, never got old. It certainly made the first km or so of my run fly by. Then I found a sorry little crab flailing and stuck in his little hole which had caved in with the incoming tide. Ungratefully, he pinched me when I tried to save him but I think maybe his eyes had been pecked off so he was having a pretty rough day and I couldn’t really blame him for being bad company.

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After 20 minutes or so running the sun was almost down and the light was dying so I turned back to the hotel. Unfortunately my camera isn’t the best so didn’t really capture the colours and beauty of the sunset to its full effect.

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I really enjoyed my stay in Canoa, I’ve left now and am writing this on the bus to Guayaquil. It was a great place to keep active (swimming, surfing, volleyball, football, walking and of course running), without paying for expensive day trips or activities. Compared to cities and towns (think Mindo’s driveways/Quito’s altitude), beach running really is a no brainier; beautiful, super easy navigation and best friends with hench legs! What’s not to love?

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Christmas: if not family, then what is it all about? Celebrating the birth of Christ maybe. But for me, mostly family. And despite largely being a solo traveller, at one with the open road and nothing else, I was lucky enough to have a (partial) family Christmas. That part of my family would be my mum, who has travelled to Ecuador to spend a few weeks of the festive season with me. Not only am I lucky enough to have a mum happy to travel with me, she is also up for running with me. Our Christmas Day was far from traditional and began with an early morning run on the beach together.

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Awoken bright and early by la madre, clearly the tables have turned since the days I was up before the crack of dawn on Christmas Day, desperate to get stuck in to my stocking. After a not so early night on the tiles (sand), it took a few nudges and some persuasion before I was up and ready to go. Aside from the rum-head, I was slightly battered and bruised from a surf lesson the day before. I had also trodden on a ridiculously spiky shell and still had (have) some pieces of the little bastard in my left heel. Undeterred(ish), we hit the beach.

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It was early morning and thus cool enough to enjoy a run out of the searing equatorial sunshine. The sky was cloudy but bright and it was shaping up to be a glorious day; a world away from the chilly Christmas the rest of my family were enjoying back in the UK. The beach was already gently buzzing with people enjoying walks, runs and even some swims to kick off their Christmas Day. Barefoot running on the beach, the sea lapping at my toes, is probably one of my favourite ways to start any day. I wonder how I could incorporate it into the usual festive traditions back home. After a brisk and refreshing run we returned to the hotel to exchange our gifts. No stocking for Rosa this year!

Later in the day we headed into Canoa for our Christmas dinner (ceviche, beer and ice cream). The beach was alive and singing with hoardes of families enjoying their Christmas in the sun. It was lovely to see an alternative to the traditions back home and to have my mum there. Nevertheless I couldn’t help but look forward to Christmas next year, with all of my family. And lots of cheese and wine.

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Mindo

Maybe I should have got my rabies jabs. My most recent runs have consisted of me running down nice quiet tracks, only to find that they are someone’s driveway with an aggressive dog at the end. I have avoided any rabid bites. So far.

My first run in Mindo pretty much panned out like that. I ran down a few surprise driveways until I gave up and headed up the main road, no pavement. Despite not choosing a great route, I still saw some nice things along the way. Including lots of bananas. Bananas grow everywhere in Mindo. Varieties I had never seen before, my favourites being these little stout pink ones. Mindo also has lots of birds, which attract many ‘birders’ desperate to tick off another exotic species on their bird bucket list. I saw some nice birds. I couldn’t tell you what they were but I did find out that there is a species of hummingbird called a ‘hoary puffleg’. Fantastic.

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On my first tour of Mindo’s driveways whilst heading down a promising looking track (drive), there were a group of kids playing out. Seeing me running towards them they all screamed and darted for cover in their yards and houses. A red puffing gringo running towards you is clearly something of a rarity in Mindo. When I inevitably had to make the awkward u-turn back, on finding the house at the end of the drive, the kids did the same again; running screaming for cover from the scary monster. Only one brave little girl poked her head around the gate once I was at a safe distance and shouted ‘Hola gringa’ after me. Seeing a white person running seemed not just to shock the children. Making my way back into town, everyone I passed was struggling to contain their sniggers and gasps on seeing my red face. It’s essential to have a sense of humour at these times, or risk developing some sort of complex. I mean I guess they’re laughing at my red face, right?

My second run in Mindo was little more successful. It was however a bright and temperate early evening; lovely running conditions. After running down two very pleasant and long driveways I found the town playing field, with views down to the pretty little town in the mountainous jungle. The environment is sometimes described as ‘cloud forest’; the clouds kiss the tops of the mountains, sometimes enveloping Mindo and its neighbours. Literally having your head (and the rest of you), in the clouds.

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It had been a beautiful Sunday in Mindo, and the hub of the village was the pretty river which runs right through. Locals were swimming, socialising and washing there; there was even a little barbecue set up selling grilled plantain and corn. The river festivities were winding down as I passed by on my run, but there were still a few people going for a dip before the sun went down. It was a canny community vibe and I wish now that I had joined them.

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