Tag Archives: Peru

6 months away

6 months ago today I was being driven to Newcastle airport by my parents with a big scabby chin. My worldly possessions for my future away were packed into my little rucksack weighing just 12 kilos. It seems like a lifetime ago. Now my chin is healed and I’ve gained a few kilos (rucksack and elsewhere) and soz for the cheese but I’ve also gained so much more in this last half a year. 

Looking back through my blog posts since I touched down in Lima, pale and timid, I feel so happy and lucky to have encountered these amazing places and learnt so much from them: Cusco was my first Latino love; Bolivia was stunning; Colombia was just one big pleasure-filled love-in; I had amazing experiences in Ecuador; shared Christmas with my mum on the beach; was spoilt by my kiwi family on arrival in New Zealand; ran with my dad; found my perfect way of life in Aus; and got a nipple-on in Queenstown

The only thing that can match the places I have seen is the people I have shared them with. At home everyone told me how many new friends I would make away. From day one in South America I was wondering where all my new bezzies were hiding. I missed my friends so much and really wanted to meet someone just like ‘us’. It took me a little while and many conversations to realise that yes, my friends are the best, but I haven’t travelled around the world to meet someone just like ‘us’. Over these months my mind has been opened, my judgements blunted, and I have met people whose paths mine would have never crossed elsewhere. With that beautiful part of travelling, I have friends across the globe to visit when I can. And thankfully my home friends in the UK are still awake in the early hours of Saturday morning for a mashed party Skype exactly when I need them on a Sunday afternoon in NZ. 

Aside from being an excuse for self indulgent nostalgia, today is a very special day back home; my big sister’s 30th birthday. Being away has meant I’ve missed out on lots of occasions back home, not celebrating with my sisters, who I am so close to, is one of the hardest. This photo is from the last time the three of us were together and we got matching tattoos. We even got to tattoo each other! I’m so glad we did it (sorry mum); I just need to look at my arm to feel a bit closer to them. 

  

 With a further 6 months of running away ahead, I know I will still feel homesick (it never stops!), and miss out on yet more special days (two of my best friends are due to give birth in May and I’m gutted I won’t be around to meet the newborns). But I also know I have many more places, people, opportunities and experiences yet to come. I have been reassured that the UK isn’t going anywhere, and I’m sure as hell gona make the most of the next 6 months. Big love to all my family and friends; old and new.

 

  

Lima2

And I came full circle. Well, wiggly oval really. My last run in South America, the same place as my very first. My mind drifted back to that first run:the nerves in the traffic; the shock of the misogyny; the sunburn; will I get mugged/attacked/fall over?! I’m not sure if it counts as wisdom but I am certainly more chilled out than on my arrival. Which my homegirls and boys may find hard to believe since calmness has (pretty much) always prevailed over panic with me. Man I am just so laid back these days. I don’t smoke da reefer but I reckon these days one could induce an irreversible horizontality in me. Best stick to the natural endorphin highs of running.

Not one to lose my British roots and traditions, I hit the tiles on Saturday night on a farewell foray binge in Lima. Feeling less than fresh on Sunday it took me a while to emerge from my bunk and get running. I finally managed late on in the afternoon. One thing I have learned whilst travelling is that my beloved binge culture stands firmly with the Brits and Aussies. South Americans (and everyone else) are quite content to have a few drinks and dance without losing all memory and dignity of the night. So whilst my traditional hangover was limited to me and my party pals from the night before, the people of Lima were upholding their own Sunday traditions: spending time with their families. My run took me to Parque Raimondi, perched above the cliffs of Lima and overlooking the ocean. Running through the busy park and seeing the families, friends and couples enjoying happy wholesome days really blew the cobwebs off and put a smile on my face.

The first scene I met at the park was of a large statue of a couple having an impassioned fumble, set against the ocean backdrop. Glancing down I couldn’t help but grin when I noticed the lawn strewn with enamoured couples. *sigh*. The beauty of life imitating art. Latino lovers show their love. In public, lots. South America has clearly turned the cynic within me soft, thinking back to UK life; where a couple snogging in the bus seat in front would have got my eyes rolling.

IMG_2087.JPG

Further along Parque Raimondi I passed many more happy families and companions enjoying the fruits of a beautiful Sunday afternoon. A large group of people, young and old, finessed their tight-rope walking skills between the palm trees. A group performed capoeira to crowds on the grass. Dogs were walked, bikes rode, and faces shone.

IMG_2089.JPG

The first chapter of my adventures running away closes. And what a colourful chapter it has been. So many places, people, parties, new friends, nights out, beauty, babes, boys, runs and memories. And I wouldn’t change a thing. I am so excited for the new horizons waiting to be run to in New Zealand. I won’t be met with stares of bafflement for being a running gringo, I will be able to put my toilet paper in the toilet, and I will be able to get change for a 20 without the shop person looking at me like I’d just stabbed their fave llama. Can’t wait.

Huanchaco

Mancora chewed me up and spat me out; before I had a chance to sober up I was on a night bus heading South. That place is a bottomless pit, albeit a very fun bottomless pit with lots of lovely people inside. It’s a good job I’m on a schedule at the moment, working my way down to Lima for a flight on Monday. Otherwise you may have found me still there next month; propping up/dancing on the bar, having accepted a job, paid in bunk bed and liquid form.

After 11 hours on that night bus, with a barely reclining seat, sandwiched between the window and a fat man, motivation was also struggling to find me in Huanchaco, my next stop. At least I’d had a seat this time (my seatless night bus from The Ecuadorian border to Mancora is really up there as a pinnacle of low points on my trip). But after a lazy day, chilling on the beach rather than venturing into the desert to visit ruins, an evening run on the beach really sorted me out and stopped me feeling sorry for myself.

Huanchaco is another coastal town, favoured by Peruvians, pelicans and a handful of travellers. The beach was still buzzing as I headed out whilst the sunlight started to die; many families from the nearby city of Trujillo and surrounding areas visit Huanchaco for the sun, sea and ceviche. Built on the coast of the Sechura desert, the heat is pretty searing during the day. Early evening was the perfect time to work up a sweat on the sand. It wasn’t such the meditative, primal kind of beach run I have enjoyed in places like Tayrona, Colombia or Canoa, Ecuador. I needed my wits about me, concentrating on the ground to avoid the many stones and children littering the beach.

IMG_2077.JPG

Huanchaco is a fishing town, where the fisherman favour traditional canoes made from reeds. The boats are all lined up against the wall of the beach, creating silhouettes which pointed up at the sky like tall, erect bananas. I also found this Pelican chilling, feeling pangs of nostalgia when I thought back to the same thing happening on my very first run in South America, in Lima back in October last year.

IMG_2071.JPG

As I got further around the beach, the crowds were thinning. I enjoyed watching the surfers catch the last few waves of the day, the Pelicans their last few fish. After enough post-night bus exertion I retired back to the hostel and to a bunk bed sleep I felt I’d really earned.

IMG_2086.JPG