Tag Archives: river

Cuenca

I’m sure you have all been sick with worry. A whole 13 days since my last post, I do apologise. But unfortunately I have not been in tip top running condition: in a dramatic turn of events, last weekend I made a teary-eyed trip to A & E, convinced I had malaria, dengue or chickungunya. So it turned out to be flu which developed into a chest infection a few days later, after I crawled through some tunnels instead of resting. It had its dark points, but if anything my malady only served to boost my faith in humanity. It’s rubbish being ill and alone but despite being so far from home (and my mum), I was looked after from the moment I woke in my hostel bed, thinking I had the hangover of the century. The kind traveller in my hostel who accompanied me to the hospital; my friend from Quito and his family who took me in until I was feeling better; the family in Latacunga and their herbal remedies: I have been spoiled with kindness and amazing herbal teas for over a week! Thanks to these lovely humans I am pretty much better and was feeling well enough for a run in Cuenca this morning.

I had planned to head to Montañita for the weekend, starting my last week in South America as I mean to go on; with a beer in my hand and a slur in my words. However in favour of sense and responsibility (not sure where they came from), I opted for cultural Cuenca instead and some more recovery time. Cuenca is a beautiful colonial town; walking through the historical centre I felt as though I was in Barcelona, Vienna and Paris, all in the space of ten minutes. Along with having some great roommates at my hostel, I think I made the right choice in passing up the sun and surf of Montañita. I even learned a bit more about Mama Negra (still racist, also throws milk at people). And I got drunk last night. Everyone’s (I am) a winner!

IMG_2013.JPG

So the drinks last night helped me sleep through the incessant beeping of a pedestrian crossing outside my window and I woke feeling ready to run. My first run in nearly 2 weeks; I took it slowly along the beautiful riverside which runs from my hostel to the city centre, stopping for the occasional coughing fit. Cuenca is impossibly romantic; I’m sure the amorous couples on the riverbanks instantaneously fell in love when they lay down and saw the beautiful blue of the sky against the green mountains and reddish city-scape. It’s a bit harder to fall in love whilst running (not enough time for eye contact), so the river-dwellers of Cuenca were safe. These included lots of cyclists enjoying a leisurely Sunday morning pedal, a fair few other runners, and some walkers who were probably busy falling in love.

IMG_1995.JPG

I ended my run in the park/ archaeological Incan site of Tumipampa: a gorgeous park complete with Incan ruins, gardens, ponds and tropical birds. Despite feeling like I was going to vom when I got back to the hostel, it was a successful and enjoyable return to running away.

IMG_2016-3.JPG

Medellin2

Last night was the final of the South American Cup and Medellin’s Athletico Nacional were up against Argentina’s River Plate. I rushed back from my bus from Guatape, hoping to be back on time to see the big game. The streets were buzzing with people rushing for the same reason, dressed in their green Athletico Nacional jerseys. I bought my first ever football top for a bargain 15,000 Colombian pesos (less than a fiver) off some guy in the street. Back at the hostel, I asked how we were getting to the stadium and how much tickets would be from a tout. It turned out that the match was actually in Argentina (the final was in Medellin last week and they drew, this was a rematch for the title). Disappointed, all little embarrassed at my mistake, but immediately more chilled out, we headed to a bar to catch the game on a big screen. Unfortunately AN lost 2-0 to RP and the victory party I had been hoping for took place across the the other end of South America.

Partially due use of this, I was up and feeling fresh enough for a run this morning. Showing that I am no fickle fan, I donned my Athletico top (nothing to do with the fact that I haven’t done any laundry for about 3 weeks). I headed out of the hostel to explore further the area of Poblado, where I am staying. It is one of the more affluent areas of the city, popular with tourists and rich with stylish boutiques, bars and eateries. A little river runs between the steep streets around the hostel; a narrow strip of jungle luschiousness flowing through the urbanity.

IMG_1637.JPG

I decided to head up the hill towards the mountains, hoping to get a good picture of the huge city below. Following Calle 10, which is one of the main roads in the area and curls and winds up the steep slope with traffic rushing past in both directions. Unfortunately due to the windings of the road, the pavement keeps swapping sides and my run wasn’t flowing as I would have liked. Also due to the many tower blocks and development in the area it was difficult to get a clear view of the city, this is the best I could do.

IMG_1641.JPG

I set off back down the hill, passing a few avocado sellers on the way and making sure I detoured a few blocks further down the hill before returning to my hostel, to check out the urban gym nearby. I have seen a fair few of them across South America but this has by far been the busiest. Too shy and a bit intimidated to get stuck in on the weights, I just asked the guys there working out for a photo for this post. They seemed a bit surprised by the whole thing and unfortunately my Spanish didn’t allow for an explanation, I just looked like a bit of a pervert.

IMG_1644.JPG

Palomino

Another day, another beach, another hammock. This time in Palomino, a sleepy village further up the coast from Tayrona. With no ATM, and having been paying for paradise, I was on a budget. Luckily my hammock was cheap, I grabbed a bargain ‘menu del dias’ and found a man selling big bags of mangoes for about 60p. I bagged a free ride back from the village on the back of a motorbike, driven by a man with a huge machete strapped to his leg (still not really sure how that came about). My finca (hostel)’s health and safety advice was to beware of falling coconuts, and my biggest concern in the world was how I would get the mango string out of my teeth. Sleepy with the sea air, I got an earlyish night in my new fave sleeping device.

Waking early to the sounds of the sea, seems to be a catalyst for an unusual hunger for running. Barefoot again I bounded away, into blue skies, gold sands, with the sun on my back. The beach was already dotted with other early birds, some fishing (for that worm maybe), some strolling and some swimming. I ran for a little while to where the mouth of a river meets the sea. It seemed to be a little hub of activity for the locals, and a very pretty one at that.

IMG_1389.JPG

IMG_1393.JPG

After a short paddle I turned and retraced my steps to the finca. The sun was hotting up despite the young day and I had a splash and dip in the sea to cool down. That primal feeling was back and I’m wondering what could beat it. I might have to find a coastal tribe to join. Happy but tired from the taxing sand running, I was ready for my mango breakfast and another lie down in my fave place.

IMG_1399.JPG

All this hanging in hammocks and hitting the beaches has me sleepy and siesta-ready at most hours. The Caribbean Colombians sometimes have a reputation for laziness and just not really getting much done. But really when there are beautiful beaches to behold and so many hammocks to be lain in, teamed with the tropical heat, I can kind of see how that could happen…