Tag Archives: south america

Mindo

Maybe I should have got my rabies jabs. My most recent runs have consisted of me running down nice quiet tracks, only to find that they are someone’s driveway with an aggressive dog at the end. I have avoided any rabid bites. So far.

My first run in Mindo pretty much panned out like that. I ran down a few surprise driveways until I gave up and headed up the main road, no pavement. Despite not choosing a great route, I still saw some nice things along the way. Including lots of bananas. Bananas grow everywhere in Mindo. Varieties I had never seen before, my favourites being these little stout pink ones. Mindo also has lots of birds, which attract many ‘birders’ desperate to tick off another exotic species on their bird bucket list. I saw some nice birds. I couldn’t tell you what they were but I did find out that there is a species of hummingbird called a ‘hoary puffleg’. Fantastic.

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On my first tour of Mindo’s driveways whilst heading down a promising looking track (drive), there were a group of kids playing out. Seeing me running towards them they all screamed and darted for cover in their yards and houses. A red puffing gringo running towards you is clearly something of a rarity in Mindo. When I inevitably had to make the awkward u-turn back, on finding the house at the end of the drive, the kids did the same again; running screaming for cover from the scary monster. Only one brave little girl poked her head around the gate once I was at a safe distance and shouted ‘Hola gringa’ after me. Seeing a white person running seemed not just to shock the children. Making my way back into town, everyone I passed was struggling to contain their sniggers and gasps on seeing my red face. It’s essential to have a sense of humour at these times, or risk developing some sort of complex. I mean I guess they’re laughing at my red face, right?

My second run in Mindo was little more successful. It was however a bright and temperate early evening; lovely running conditions. After running down two very pleasant and long driveways I found the town playing field, with views down to the pretty little town in the mountainous jungle. The environment is sometimes described as ‘cloud forest’; the clouds kiss the tops of the mountains, sometimes enveloping Mindo and its neighbours. Literally having your head (and the rest of you), in the clouds.

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It had been a beautiful Sunday in Mindo, and the hub of the village was the pretty river which runs right through. Locals were swimming, socialising and washing there; there was even a little barbecue set up selling grilled plantain and corn. The river festivities were winding down as I passed by on my run, but there were still a few people going for a dip before the sun went down. It was a canny community vibe and I wish now that I had joined them.

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Quito

Quito: the world’s second highest Capitol City (after La Paz, where I opted not to run), at 2800m above sea level. A few places I had been to in Colombia were at pretty high altitudes, Bogota is over 2600m. However by pretending they weren’t and not listening when people talked about how high they are, I had managed fine with my running. Now in Quito, I decided to take the same ‘ignorance is bliss’ approach. And in this ignorant bliss I enjoyed 2 days in Quito and the surrounding areas; climbing the many stairs and rickety ladders of the Basílica del Voto Nacional, to stunning views of the city; visiting a fantastic artisan market in Otavalo; having a general wander and getting my first taste of Ecuador. Going for a run: ne bother.

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This morning I set my alarm for seven (after a criminally early night for a traveller), and was pounding the pavements by half past. Luckily I was even earlier than most of the city’s commuters, and the streets were fairly quiet. I headed for a nearby park which I had checked out the previous two evenings. Both times I had been there before, there had been dramatic games of volleyball going on, amongst men who looked like they had just finished work. These games were obviously a big deal to the guys involved and had drawn crowds of a couple of hundred or so men to spectate. There was not a single woman in the crowd, and I felt like I was breaking some unwritten rule by being there. Clearly I love breaking rules which exclude women from societal activities so I stayed and watched for a while.

This morning there was no volleyball happening, however the people of Quito were still loving their active pursuits a la mañana. A group were doing a martial art, complete with big sticks and vocal sound effects. There were a few runners, and many cyclists opting for the 2 wheel commute. And of course my old fave: the urban gym. I was impressed and surprised by the popularity and diversity of this gym. Men and women of all ages crowded the bright gym equipment, enthusiastically repping up a sweat before the 9 to 5. I tried to get some sly pictures from afar without looking like an urban gym pervert again, I only wish I’d bitten it and gone and got stuck in there myself. I did however rack up 2 laps of the park (mostly for those extra urb-gym glimpses), before heading back to the hostel as the roads and pavements began to clog.

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And so my ignorant bliss, I was bound to fall from it at some point. After a hearty breakfast which I felt like I deserved, I headed out to check out some local museum and gallery culture. Heading down the street, I felt light headed and dizzy, and was struggling to utter a few words at more than a whisper. Struck down by altitude yet again, I clearly haven’t acclimatised to (a runner’s) life in the mountains. I traded in the culture for a morning in bed listening to British radio, which was actually a satisfying culture fix in itself.

Palomino

Another day, another beach, another hammock. This time in Palomino, a sleepy village further up the coast from Tayrona. With no ATM, and having been paying for paradise, I was on a budget. Luckily my hammock was cheap, I grabbed a bargain ‘menu del dias’ and found a man selling big bags of mangoes for about 60p. I bagged a free ride back from the village on the back of a motorbike, driven by a man with a huge machete strapped to his leg (still not really sure how that came about). My finca (hostel)’s health and safety advice was to beware of falling coconuts, and my biggest concern in the world was how I would get the mango string out of my teeth. Sleepy with the sea air, I got an earlyish night in my new fave sleeping device.

Waking early to the sounds of the sea, seems to be a catalyst for an unusual hunger for running. Barefoot again I bounded away, into blue skies, gold sands, with the sun on my back. The beach was already dotted with other early birds, some fishing (for that worm maybe), some strolling and some swimming. I ran for a little while to where the mouth of a river meets the sea. It seemed to be a little hub of activity for the locals, and a very pretty one at that.

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After a short paddle I turned and retraced my steps to the finca. The sun was hotting up despite the young day and I had a splash and dip in the sea to cool down. That primal feeling was back and I’m wondering what could beat it. I might have to find a coastal tribe to join. Happy but tired from the taxing sand running, I was ready for my mango breakfast and another lie down in my fave place.

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All this hanging in hammocks and hitting the beaches has me sleepy and siesta-ready at most hours. The Caribbean Colombians sometimes have a reputation for laziness and just not really getting much done. But really when there are beautiful beaches to behold and so many hammocks to be lain in, teamed with the tropical heat, I can kind of see how that could happen…

Tayrona National Park

People who know me may be aware of the recent development of my passion for hammocks. It’s quite lucky really, as the travellers’ trail is bountiful when it comes to hammocks. So the prospect of sleeping in one, on a beach in a National Park, which is only accessible by a two hour trek through the jungle, is something I have been looking forward to especially. Tayrona National Park is a popular destination for adventurous tourists and travellers from across Colombia, South America and the World. After some hours travelling I arrived at the campsite and was assigned my bed for the night, in a hut with 45 other paradise seekers. After a few shots of aguardiente on Saturday night I slept like a baby, gently rocking in her crib (and sometimes rocking into her neighbours).

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I woke bright and early to the sounds of birds singing and waves lapping the shore. I donned the bare essentials and ventured out to find the lesser visited beaches around the next bays. Barefoot running on golden beaches and through tropical jungle feels pretty primal and exhilarating. I could totally be a tribeswoman. Emerging from the jungle I was greeted by a long stretch of glistening beach, blue sea, virgin sand and not a person in sight. I may not have believed it this time last year, but waking up at 6.30 does have its benefits.

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After running the length of the two beaches beyond the busier beaches at the camp, including the (empty) nudist beach, I turned back and re-entered the jungle. Hearing a loud rustling on the forest floor I stopped to spot the culprit and saw a strange pig-rodent creature a few metres away. On googling ‘pig rodent’ just now, it seems I might have seen a ‘Capybara’. The strange creature didn’t hang around for long and I continued on my way. Taking a different path I suddenly popped out on the shore again, this time over high rocks, the Caribbean Sea crashing against them below. Feeling so excited and exhilarated by my whole morning run experience, it was the first time I have ever been compelled to take a selfie on a run. I clearly just wanted to capture the sweaty, magical ecstasy of the moment.

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After 2 nights, paradise was getting a bit costly and it was time to move on. I made the trek back to civilisation alone and early, a combination I seem to be enjoying at the moment. Since the jungle route wasn’t so busy I was lucky enough to spot a family of monkeys, who also came to take a look at me walking past. Leaving the beaten track certainly has its rewards sometimes.